We are now officially on European time. We wake up early (Emily still needs to be edged out of bed at 9:30). Marc brings me 3 papers (USA Today {actually it’s USA Yesterday}, Herald Tribune and Wall Street Journal) AND a cup of espresso.
We get out by 10:30 with a plan to see Murano. It couldn’t be more beautiful. Sunny and warm. It must be in the high 70’s. The rain last night seems far away. We walk around a bit to try to find some breakfast, but all the cafes have their lunch menus out and set. We don’t really want pizza or sandwiches for breakfast. We finally end up back on the Grand Canal near our hotel because this is where we will get the boat to Murano. The breakfast of coffee, hot chocolates and toast for four costs no less than $50….

We get on the boat going to Murano and fortunately for us it lets us off on the backside of the island. Fewer people and it seems a bit less touristy, if that’s possible. Compared to Venice there are hardly any people. We walk down from the dock and find a myriad of shops. We cross over a bridge and into a quiet area of small alleys. We stumble on small shop (about the size of a closet-not your closet, mom) where a man is working, making beads. His jewelry is beautiful and we talk to him and buy some things. He has been doing this for 35 years, since he was 10. Really beautiful stuff. Large glass beads, ornaments etc. Then we head further into the island center and come into a larger show room where a woman asks if we want to see some glass being blown. She takes us back in the work room where a man, about 75, is blowing glass. We also see tons of cardboard boxes packed up and labeled with “Bloomingdale’s” “MOMA” “Tuesday Morning”…..this glass is shipped all over. Funny. He shows us how he makes a horse out of a ball of hot glass. The girls are mesmerized. They each buy a little family of animals. I am remembering our trip 30 years ago when we were each given a little family of animals after we bought that glass sculpture that lit up (whatever happened to that??).

We decide it is lunch time. First we sit at a “snack shop” as it is called, just drinks and sandwiches. But Emily is not happy and we move on. Although there is no smoking IN restaurants in Italy, you can smoke at OUTSIDE cafes and patios. Oh well. The smoking law which took effect two years ago (Jan 10, 2005) fines violators 250 EUROS but if the smoker is caught smoking in the presence of a child under the age of 12 or a VISIBLY pregnant woman, the fine is doubled. We do find a place on the water and have a nice lunch. Salads for all except Emily how has Gazpacho. We take the long way back to the hotel (one hour boat ride ALL around the area) because we got on the wrong boat…but it’s a nice rest and a great tour of the islands.

We come back to the hotel room for a few minutes and regrouping and decide to go out again to check out the Lido Island, across from Venice, and where this hotel has a sister hotel on the beach. We take a water taxi, provided by the two hotels, from our hotel to the Westin. The boat ride is about 15 minutes and not too choppy. We arrive and start to feel some raindrops. It is so amazing how the mornings and early afternoon can be so sunny and warm, sunscreen weather, and the late afternoons with a cloudy sky and raindrops. So we quickly check out the beach and feel the Adriatic (not too cold, certainly warmer than Le Lac). This place almost looks like Hawaii with fabulous covered cabanas right on the sand. We contemplate coming back tomorrow earlier in the day when it is not raining until we inquire about the price. 300 EUROS apiece…for a covered cabana?? Crazy. We will make other plans. We quickly run to catch the next boat back to our island.

We come back, Marc decides to walk around a bit on his own because he spots a sign for a hospital and follows it. He comes back with a few pieces of fruit and some ideas for dinner. He found some less touristy areas and we head for them. We find a restaurant on a square and sit outside. It is overcast but very warm and we sit outside with just t-shirts on. Unfortunately that smoking ban only applies to inside, but it is too warm and nice to sit inside. Marc and I share sardines for a first course and Sarah has a vegetable soup, Emily has fried calamari. Then Em has a pizza (margarita), Sarah and Marc share gnocchi with 4 cheeses and I have ¼ grilled chicken. Too many smokers to stay for dessert so we head across the square for gelato. Marc and Deb: Pistache, Sarah Chocolate and Em: Café. I think, but am not sure this may be their second gelato today. Oh well, vacation is almost over.

There is a lot of cell phone usage here…as expected. But the BEST we have seen (other than the elderly woman on her blackberry) is…..the gondolier talking on his cellphone while steering the gondola. Sarah says they are gifted in multitasking!